The one with the funny tongs, wild Camino chickens, and yoga with a view.
📍 Location: – St Jean to Orrison
🥾 Miles: – 5 miles uphill
⛑️ Health: Spirits are high, and everyone is in good shape.
🌦️ Weather: Ideal walking conditions—just like Goldilocks would like it!
🥘 Food: A big breakfast, no real lunch (just snacking), and then a delicious pilgrim meal.
HIGHLIGHTS
🍳 7:30 am – Breakfast!
I was the first one up and ready for breakfast, and the lovely Portuguese lady hosting the morning meal quickly explained that I should pick my own set of tongs. I was a bit puzzled until I noticed a whole line-up of silver tongs beside each plate! She picked up a pair and then guided my elbow, showing me exactly how to use them to grab cheese, ham, or cake. By the time everyone else arrived, we were all set for a delightful breakfast—complete with our shiny new tongs.
🚌 8:30 am – Off to St. Jean!
James and Liam arrived to shuttle us to St. Jean Pied de Port. It’s such a beautiful route, winding past the river and that quirky rickety train track. The mist was hanging just right over the Pyrenees mountains, and an hour later, we reached the start of our Camino, St Jean Pied de Port. At the base of the mountains, everything felt so wonderfully real—I felt right at home.
☕️ 10:00 am – First Pilgrim Stamp & Coffee!
After everyone picked up their first pilgrim stamp at the office, we split up to explore the town. Some headed to a shop across the road for another stamp, and others wandered to the tourist centre for yet another. Cheryl and I made our way to a nearby café, where I rediscovered how amazing French coffee is. What a treat!
🥾 11:30 am – Let the Camino Begin!
After a round of obligatory photos, we set off—all together for once. Along the way, we encountered some feathered companions—chickens that trailed along for a bit (there’s a video!). We also spotted skinny donkeys, cows, and sheep adorned with cowbells, plus lots of little lizards. The sun shone, with no wind—Goldilocks weather, as my friend Jane would say. Perfect!
🏔️ 12:35 pm – Hunto!
It was a hard climb, but we finally arrived at a small albergue where we paused to rest and enjoy the incredible views. There, we met Rick from Canada, who explained that his wife would be joining him in Roncesvalles tomorrow because she “wasn’t climbing that mountain again.” 😂 Just as we were relaxing, we looked up and spotted eagles circling above—what a sight!
🍷 Refuge Orrison
Seeing Refuge Orrison felt like arriving at a little oasis. The group enjoyed a round of Basque cider, beer, and wine as we checked in. The receptionist greeted us with “Credential, and then I give you shit,” which took us all by surprise until we realized she meant “sheets.” Needless to say, we couldn’t help laughing, though she didn’t find it quite as amusing!
😆 The Bunk Room
Settling into the bunk room is always entertaining. There was plenty of laughter as we all sorted out the sleeping arrangements. Some wrestled with paper pillowcases that had mysterious slits on both sides, while Lou pulled out a long, plastic device (apparently a cordless hair straightener!). Laughter filled the room as the gadgets and bunk assignments turned into quite the icebreaker.
🚿 Shower Mishaps
Ann made an amusing dash back from the shower room wrapped in just a towel, realising she’d forgotten her 5-minute hot water token! A bit of fuss later, we were all set with our tokens in hand.
🧘 5:30 pm – Yoga with a View
Maxine messaged the group to let us know she’d be leading a yoga session out front. Nearly everyone joined, stretching to the backdrop of the Pyrenees, with eagles soaring above us, giant slugs inching nearby, and cars whizzing past. Surreal hardly covers it; it was a perfect mix of peaceful and peculiar, with passing cyclists and jeep drivers waving at us as we bent into pigeon pose on the roadside.
🍲 Dinner at the Orrison
Dinner at the Refuge Orrison always has a bit of ceremony. We all sat down together to enjoy a humble pilgrim meal. We were about to tcuk in and Simon, the host, raised his hands for silence, grinning as he announced, “Bon appétit!” in true French style. The laughter carried on as we dug into tender pork loin with vegetables, followed by a delicious almond cake.
🎤 The Spoon & The Stories
After the meal, Simon held up a long spoon, which he dubbed “the microphone.” Each of us were invited to introduce ourselves, our country, and why we were walking the Camino. Andrew from Canada started, sharing that he was walking in memory of his wife. From there, we heard stories both touching and hilarious—including one from a very short Frenchman who passed the “microphone” to a towering Californian. The laughter and stories gave the night an unforgettable warmth.
🛏️ Time for Bed
With full hearts, we settled into our bunks, sharing our “roses and thorns” from the day. Maxine closed out the night with a guided meditation, helping everyone unwind. As the room quieted down, the familiar symphony of Camino snoring began—earplugs at the ready!