🥾 DISTANCE: 19 miles in total
📍LOCATION: Birdoswald to Carlisle
🌞 WEATHER: Another perfect day. Not one drop of rain, sun at times but mainly dry & cloudy.
⛑ HOW’S EVERYONE FEELING?
As we near the end of the trail our bodies are screaming at us. From sunburn to shin splints. Let’s just say the words “twinge, throb, pang, sore, tingle and ouch” meet mentioned a few times.
SUMMARY:-
Today has been our longest day so far. It was rather flat and took us through woods, country parks, farmland and numerous villages or hamlets. We stopped for coffee and cake at The Reading Room in Walton which was lovely. Steve had a bath halfway through the day (see blog) and Alison had an accident which involved a hammock! We said goodbye to The Wall today. A long day. As I type there is a wedding going on beneath my room. YMCA… it’s gonna be a long night!
THE LONG WINDED VERSION:-
8.30am – After a cracking hotel breakfast we wait outside for our mini-bus. Keith messaged me to say “dispatch has put me on another job, so you have Harry today”. The minibus turns up and an older gentleman slowly opens his driver’s door and climbs out. It’s painful to watch! He shuffles round to the side door and opens it without saying a word! Everyone piles in giving glances at each other. “I assume you are Harry?” I said. “It’s nice to meet you” and I shake his hand. We are soon to find out that he is not like Keith at all and is a man of little words. He gives me no eye contact and says “Ah meet be late pickin yee up the morra. i’ve got 10 cyclists tuh collect an’ i’ve got tuh put their bikes in the trailor”. “Ok” I reply. (Thinking how can this 102 year old guy lift 10 bikes into a trailer??). “Do you have my telephone number? Just call or text me if you are running late”. I said. He lifts his finger in the air as if to say “hold on a min” and shuffles back to the drivers seat. He returns holding an old Nokia 3310 in his hand! It’s like going back in time and I want to ask him if I can have a go at snake, but I restrain myself! He starts tapping numbers on his phone then reads out a total random number out loud. “No, that’s not my number” I say. Then he looks back at his phone and does more tapping. He reads out my number and I’m gobsmacked that it’s correct.
9.10 – Harry drives us to Birdoswald in complete silence. We miss Keith’s stories and chatter but there is enough chatter going on from the group. We clamber out of the bus and wave goodbye to our new silent friend… nothing! He was off to pick up the cyclists!
10.05 – We are an hour or so into the walk and we’ve seen forts and slices off the wall which is great. People are already cursing the ladder stiles! We walk through some woods and turn up towards the road when we stumble upon our first honesty shed. Sue, Steve and Pat are already there eating ice lollies! I took great pleasure watching everyone purchase little snacks and more ice creams! They even had a kettle with tea/coffee/chocolate/ pot noodles or porridge! Awesome!!
10.50 – Oh.. a sign! WC 150 yards. I then see Sue, Steve & Pat. Sue says “do not use that toilet. It’s minging”. Her face says it all! I post on our WhatsApp group. “Avoid WC 150 yards, it’s minging” . 20 mins later the WhatsApp pings from Gwyne “needs must,” she said! We are getting tired now and we need a break. Nearly 7 miles in and this hill is relentless. The village of Walton is not far now and The Reading Room cafe is calling!
11.50am – As we crest the top of the hill we meet an American husband and wife team who are walking in the opposite direction. “Hi” I said with a smile. “Good day ma’am” he replied. Any excuse to take a break from this hill, I stop to chat. “Are you walking the Wall?” I asked. “Sure am”, he said. “We started in Carlisle”. I looked at Cheryl as that was our final destination today. “Wow, that’s a good 10+ miles from here, you are doing brilliantly. What time did you start”? “Two days ago” he replied. Cheryl starts giggling and we wish them well as we continue on towards the cafe.
12 – We make our way through the quaint village of Walton with its chocolate box cottages and lovely old church. The Reading Room has a warm welcome feeling. It reminded me of our local Bugbrooke Community Cafe. The young girl took our orders and we spend a good 45 mins here.
Bellies full, feet rested, I’m off again. Steve, Sue & Pat, Cheryl and Mark left here about 15 mins ago, and the rest of the gang are taking their time. For now, I’m on my own. I love walking on my own. For me, I find the rhythm of the trail quite mediative and soothing. I pop my AirPods in and listen to Jay Shetty. He has a gorgeous voice that I could listen to for hours!
1.15 – I approach a small wood that has a river running through it. Having walked this trail three times previously, I know exactly where I am. Intuitively, I turn left, off the trail and there it is. A beautiful waterfall with a lovely bench. I sit on the bench for a few minutes, soaking up the atmosphere. The bench has an inscription “look for something beautiful every day” well, this spot is my something beautiful today.
The trail continues through farmland and more pockets of moss ridden woods. I hop over streams, dodge cow pats and I’m singing my heart out. I feel great and enjoying every minute.
1.40pm I reach a town called Newtown and two teenagers are sitting in the bus stop with their hoodie on and huge backpacks on the floor. They look fed up. I stopped to ask them if they were ok. One girl, with one earphone in, told me that they were waiting for Lucy’s parents to collect them. They had had enough and just couldn’t go on. They had been walking for two days, since Bowness on Solway and both had blisters on their feet. Looking at their trainers and the size of the packs I nodded in sympathy.
3.20pm – I’m getting tired now. 13 miles done and my feet are throbbing. I tell myself that I will stop at the next available place. As I approach another honesty shed I see some familiar faces. Steve & Pat are sitting on the stools and Sue is swinging away in a hammock. What fun! I want a go in that hammock! Which is exactly what I did. I had a good break here. I waved goodbye to Sue, Steve, Pat, Mark & Cheryl and waited for the next batch of people. Alison and Len were not that far behind. Alison is hobbling as she cut her foot on a bathroom tile last night. Len makes tea whilst Alison decides that the hammocks look welcoming. She sits on the hammock and promptly falls backwards. She is now lying on the floor with her legs on the hammock laughing uncontrollably. It’s infectious! I say goodbye to Alison. & Len and continue on my way. Note to self, the Stag Pub in Crosby is now open (it’s been closed the last two years).
4pm – This last section into Carlisle is walking through a nature reserve alongside the river. It’s lovely, however, my feet are a bit sore which distracts me from the trail. My AirPods are popped back into my ears, but this time I play my walking playlist which puts a bounce in my step. I’m motoring along and make my way over the M6 (a bridge, I hasten to add!). I can see the front runners up ahead. When I reach them, Steve is carrying two rucksacks and Pat has a slight limp. She has developed shin splints in her right leg and I know from experience how painful this can be. We reach Carlisle. Plug in Google Maps and slowly head for the hotel for a much needed beer.
5.20 pm – Made it! Nearly 20 miles done today. It’s our last day tomorrow! This week has flown by!