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The one with frothy knickers, fabulous waterfalls, and lots of rain!
? Location: Zubiri to Pamplona ? Miles: 14 miles ⛑️ Health My foot is now so swollen I had to tape it up to get through the day. Walking is becoming a test of sheer determination! ?️ Weather: Overcast at first, but by 11 am the rain arrived – steady and unrelenting for most of the day. ? Food: Dinner was an experience. I tried a dish called “shepherd’s crumbs” with steak and sausage – it was like eating the gritty bottom of a bird cage. Never again! Thankfully, the tapas later more than made up for it. Sublime!HIGHLIGHTS
? A day of contrasts. The first half was uneventful, but peaceful and lovely in its own way. As we left Zubiri, the trail was gentle, winding alongside the river. Horses grazed quietly in the fields, and we passed a huge working quarry that filled the air with industry. We met and chatted with other pilgrims, sharing stories and laughter as the trail stretched ahead. Walking beside a river always brings a certain serenity, and today was no exception. ☕️ Rain and respite. By the time we reached the cafe by the river, the rain had begun to drizzle gently. The timing was perfect; we ducked under cover and treated ourselves to café con leche, homemade cake, and hearty bocadillos for lunch. As the rain turned steadier, we donned our waterproofs and headed back onto the trail. ? Kindness on the road. A vivid memory from today: workers laying steaming tarmac along the road. Small flecks of the sticky stuff splattered my legs – they’re still stubbornly stuck there! Meanwhile, Ann, Tash, and Donna hadn’t yet suited up in their rain gear and were caught in a sudden downpour. A kind worker saw their predicament and lifted the tailgate of his truck, creating a makeshift shelter so they could change. Moments like this restore your faith in humanity.
? A choice of paths. The trail split into two options after the picnic area: a scenic river route or the traditional mountain path that led to a special church. Five of us opted for the river, and the other five braved the climb to the church for an encounter with the nuns.
☔️ The high road crew. Those who chose the mountain path were rewarded with a unique, laughter-filled adventure. Lou, hilariously nicknamed “Frothy Knickers,” discovered that her leggings foamed up from a combination of rain and washing powder – hilariously and unfortunately concentrated around the groin area! They rang the bell at the church (though Lou managed to ring the wrong one) and slogged through a river flowing down the mountainside, soaking wet but thoroughly entertained.
? The river walkers. For those of us who followed the river, it was a quieter but equally beautiful experience. We paused to photograph waterfalls, watched a heron elegantly fishing, and shared easy, companionable conversation. Paul and Max sped ahead; Paul had forgotten his rain jacket and was chilled to the bone.
? Arrival in Pamplona. Crossing the drawbridge and stepping through the city walls was like stepping into another world. The quiet of the trail was replaced by the lively bustle of a Friday afternoon in Pamplona. Bars spilled over with people sipping wine and beer, laughter and chatter filling the streets. The vibrant energy was infectious.
? Celebration time. Lou, Ali, and Kate were already waiting for us with smiles and stories, while Paul and Max had wisely gone straight to the hotel to warm up. By the time we all gathered at a small bar near the cathedral, the rain had eased, and we celebrated in comfort with glasses of wine.
? A perfect ending. Sitting there, listening to everyone recount their day’s adventures – from frothy leggings to peaceful river walks – filled me with such joy. Watching friendships form between people who had only just met, seeing their sense of achievement, and sharing their laughter is what makes the Camino unforgettable. This is the magic of the trail: the camaraderie, the shared purpose, and the feeling of belonging.