📍 Housesteads to Birdoswald Fort
🥾 Distance: 16 miles
🌤️ Weather: Much improved – still windy, occasional showers, but plenty of sunshine
🦶 Health: Pinky toe blisters are having a moment
The one with…
- The return of the PUDs (Pointless Ups and Downs)
- A flying sit pad and an unlikely fishing rod
- An emotional moment at the tree that’s no longer there
After a hearty breakfast and a bit of logistics juggling, the group were dropped off at Housesteads Roman Fort at 9am. One final Shuttle Dance later, I joined them – and almost instantly, the PUDs began. If you’re new here, a PUD is a Pointless Up and Down – the sort of mini hill that seems to exist purely to mess with your legs and your will to live.
🌳 Sycamore Gap… but Not Quite
It wasn’t long before we descended into one of the most iconic spots on the trail – Sycamore Gap. But this time, something was missing.
I’ve walked this section so many times, and nothing could have prepared me for the wave of emotion I felt seeing the stump of what was once that magnificent tree. The area is now protected by a fence, and people have left painted stones with messages of grief and reflection. The wind howled as I leaned over and spotted tiny green shoots sprouting from the old trunk – a quiet sign of resilience. I found myself in tears. I know… it’s just a tree. But it never really was just a tree, was it?
💨 PUDs, Paths & Safety Calls
Kevlar and Corrine, clearly gluttons for punishment, opted to stick to the full-on ridge walk, PUDs and all. The rest of the group (the sensible ones!) took the old military path, which follows the same route at a lower elevation. With strong winds still about, I was relieved to see people making smart choices.
Of course, no one escaped the PUDs entirely. There was still plenty of climbing, descending, laughing, helping each other over tricky bits, and waving at other hikers. This is hands down my favourite part of the whole trail – raw, wild, and stunning.
🧺 Midday at the Quarry
By noon, we reached Cawfields Quarry, where Martin and Steve were waiting – a very welcome sight indeed! We stretched out in the sunshine, munched on sarnies, and enjoyed a moment of calm. That is… until Kim’s sit pad went rogue and launched itself into the lake.
Cue Martin’s moment of genius: he emerged from his car (which is basically the land version of Mary Poppins’ handbag) wielding a hammer tied to a long string. No explanation. But somehow – it worked. The rogue sit pad was rescued, and Martin earned legendary status for his improvised angling skills.
We also bumped into a young man walking the Pennine Way, hauling a pack bigger than most toddlers. He was clearly overloaded, so Martin gave him a lift to Haltwhistle. Honestly, Martin’s on track for sainthood.
🐑 Operation Sheep Rescue
Later, while tail walking, I noticed the group up ahead had stopped. Hayley was pointing at something, and when I caught up, it became clear that Jane was on a sheep-saving mission. One poor ewe was lying down and looking very unwell. We were near a farmhouse, so a few of us went to track down the farmer, who was incredibly grateful and promised to check on her. Hiker heroes, to the rescue.
🌲 Peekaboo, PUDs, and a Final Push
We played a bit of peekaboo in the forest (check the photos – we’re easily amused!), navigated a few final PUDs, then descended into Walltown Quarry for a well-earned longer break.
At 3pm, we made our final push toward Birdoswald. It’s a beautiful section – with quiet hamlets, spooky castles, wooden bridges over bubbling streams – but after 14+ miles, beauty isn’t always enough to distract from tired legs.
🧱 Roman Ruins & One Last Climb
The last stretch takes you right through a vast Roman site, with some of the most complete wall sections yet. You can clearly see turrets, foundations, and even imagine life here nearly 2,000 years ago. A massive iron bridge looms above the river below, and it’s genuinely breathtaking.
Some folks were tempted to dip their feet in the cool water. Others powered through, knowing the end was just ten minutes away.
Spoiler alert: those ten minutes included one last brutal hill.
There was some swearing. There were groans. But – they did it. Every single one of them. And I couldn’t have been prouder.
🛁 Back to Base
All aboard the minibus for the 20-minute journey back to the hotel, where hot showers, warm socks, and good food awaited.
What a day.