The one with the dead baby snake, lemon beer explosion & Caroline locked in the loo.
📍 Location: Neda to Miño
🥾 Distance: 13.7 miles
🌞 Weather: Hot, muggy, and full of unexpected sprinkles
Summary:
Today was a day of uphill climbs, village fiestas, and forest surprises. We met passionate performers, found a drilling rig that made one pilgrim’s day, and ended with sticky lemon beer, baby blisters, and a very stuck Caroline. Despite the heat and hills, the spirit of the Camino was strong – strangers becoming friends and laughter bubbling at every turn.
🍳 8:00 am – The owners at our beachside hotel were working like absolute trojans at breakfast. One minute he’s making toast, the next pouring fresh coffee, then magically reappearing with eggs – all while the group buzzed with stories from yesterday and nervous excitement for the trail ahead.
🔔 8:30 am – Before heading off, we popped into the tiny chapel connected to the hotel – a peaceful, candlelit space that felt like stepping back in time. We rang the old brass bell (because when in Spain…), then gathered for the morning briefing. Spoiler: Today’s theme is uphill. And so… we climb.
🐕 9:23 am – “Aww, look at his face!” cooed Emma, as a fluffy dog popped its head over a gate. Adorable. Until it wasn’t. That angelic face turned Cujo in 0.3 seconds – snarling, barking, and practically levitating. Emma backed away like a ninja. Lesson of the day: not all Spanish dogs want a cuddle.
🐍 10:05 am – Next up on the Camino Safari: a dead baby snake. Yes, you read that right. Just lying in the road, giving us all the ick. Definitely not the kind of wildlife we were hoping to spot.
🌿 10:48 am – The trail wound through magical eucalyptus forests, the air thick with scent and shade. Scattered along the path were honesty boxes – some with handmade bracelets, others with Camino shells, and quite a few with cool drinks. Hayley and I opened one rustic coolbox and found ice-cold Radler beers inside! We dropped our coins in the pot – only for one beer to explode, spraying me with sticky lemon fizz. So much for smelling like eucalyptus…
☕ 11:45 am – By the time we reached Cabanas, we were flagging. Eight miles in, caffeine and cake were essential. We plonked ourselves at a buzzing café and I played Camino Podiatrist, tending to a few toe blisters. On the Camino, blister maintenance in public is 100% socially acceptable. Annette, our official Passport Queen, went off in search of a stamp – and returned victorious. We also met Shane from Colorado and caught up with the lovely Scottish father-daughter duo. The Camino really does bring the world together.
🛠️ 12:30 pm – As we approached the long bridge into Pontedeume, Emma squealed, “OMG, it’s a drilling rig!” Her eyes sparkled. None of us had a clue what we were looking at, but Emma is a geologist, and this was her equivalent of spotting Beyoncé. We smiled and nodded supportively.
🎉 Pontedeume was buzzing. A full-blown Spanish fiesta was underway – it’s a bank holiday here. Streets filled with families, bars overflowing, and a dramatic recital underway by a man in a white cape emblazoned with the Red Cross. A brass band struck up, and dancers in traditional dress paraded through the square. It felt like we’d wandered onto a movie set. We gave the group an hour to explore and eat – our little squad found tortilla with chorizo and devoured every bite.
🥵 1:30 pm – Navigating through fiesta crowds was one thing… but then came the hill. A relentless, soul-sapping, sweat-dripping beast of a climb straight out of town. It was now 24°C and rising. Halfway up, we found a fountain. Annette, now affectionately known as The Sprinkler, shouted “Shower time!” and whipped out her cooling towel. She gave it a spin and drenched us all with refreshing mist.
🌲 3:30 pm – The sun beat down as we trudged through more forested trails and sleepy hamlets, passing pastel-painted homes with crooked shutters, and grandmas waving from balconie,s shouting “Burn Camino”. I walked with Sue (aka Phyllis), and we shared life stories and put the world to right. We realised somewhere around mile 12 that today’s distance was definitely not 10 miles. Oops. Guess who needs to update the planner for the September group?
🍰 Just outside Miño, we stopped at a café which was a welcome sight. We had coffee, cake, and celebratory beers. Then Hayley and Emma rolled in, smiling through the sweat. We all waited and clapped each of our group in as they made it to the cafe. We rested for over an hour, everyone looking out for each other, swapping stories and sipping slowly. Just as we were about to leave, Sue asked, “Where’s Caroline?”… cue banging from the loo. Yep, she’d been locked in the bathroom and no one had noticed! 😂
🏨 Hotel: Together, we ambled to our hotel. I was slightly nervous as I hadn’t stayed there before, but it was clean, comfy, and the owner was lovely – even phoning ahead to book our dinner table for the evening. Camino kindness at its finest.
🍽️ 8:30 pm – Dinner was late (standard Spanish timing), but worth every minute. We dined alfresco at a small family-run spot. Translation was patchy, but laughter bridged the gap. The food was divine – rustic, generous, and served with a smile.
🌹 We wrapped up with our usual roses and thorns (highs and lows), and it was so special to hear everyone’s reflections. Even the tough moments are becoming treasured memories.
Thanks for reading the blog. See you tomorrow!