The Monsal Trail & Shacklow Wood
👣 6 miles | Highest elevation: 801ft | Total ascent: 1,244ft
The one with… wild garlic carpets, echoing tunnels, and ice cream at the summit!
☀️ Another glorious day of sunshine, with temperatures climbing to 24°C. Plenty of stops were needed to drink water, reapply sunscreen… and eat ice cream!
🌅 6:00 am – Farmyard Alarms (Take Two) – The morning chorus returned in full swing, but this time it wasn’t just the cockerels — the farmyard hounds decided to join in. Fergus, of course, slept through the entire performance. I brewed my morning cuppa and rustled up some porridge as the sun rose gently over the hill.
🔔 8:50 am – Bells, Diversions & a Glorious View – After a scenic drive over the moors to Chatsworth Caravan Park to collect Jen and Jilly, I met up with Hannah in Bakewell. Just as we were heading to the charming village of Ashford-in-the-Water, Jan messaged with a heads-up: the high street was closed due to a burst water main. 🙄 A short detour later, we arrived at the car park right on cue, just as the church bells rang out a welcoming ding dong.
🥾 9:45 am – Small But Mighty – With some of the group tending to grandparent duties (and others nursing blisters from Saturday!), we set off as a smaller group. But don’t be fooled — the energy and chatter levels were as strong as ever. My pre-walk briefing was simple: “This trail was designed by Paul Coxon… so expect a hill. Or two!” 😂
🐕 10:00 am – Muddy Dogs & Meandering Meadows – The route started gently, leading us uphill out of the village and across flat meadows framed by rolling green countryside. Jilly immediately found the muddiest pond possible and emerged wearing what looked like thigh-high brown wellies. Fergus, showcasing his award-winning selective hearing, chose to bypass the pond altogether — he’s definitely not a water baby.
🛤 10:20am – Onto the Monsal Trail – We joined the Monsal Trail, once dubbed “Little Switzerland” by Victorian visitors. In 1863, John Ruskin lamented the loss of the valley when the Midland Railway cut through it. Now, the old trackbed is a beautiful, accessible 8-mile trail loved by walkers, runners, cyclists, horse riders — and today, us!
🚂 10:30 am – Tunnel Echoes & Choo-Choo Chats – We wandered into the cool shadows of Headstone Tunnel, almost 500m long and with near-vertical rock sides designated as a geological SSSI. Of course, we made choo-choo noises… and the tunnel answered right back!
⛰ 10:40am – The Viaduct & The Climb – Emerging from the tunnel, we found ourselves on the magnificent Headstone Viaduct — a marvel of Victorian engineering. After soaking up the sweeping views of the Wye Valley, I asked the group, “Do you want the good news or the not-so-good news first?”
The good news: we’d soon be in Riverside Meadows. The not-so-good: we had to earn it by tackling a steep staircase to Monsal Head. But at the top…
🍦 10:55 am – Victory = Ice Cream – we were rewarded with even more spectacular views and a much-deserved ice cream stop. Smiles all round!
🌳 11:15 am – Downhill Challenges – Our descent into the valley was scenic but demanding: steep slopes, uneven paths, tree roots, and narrow ledges with steep drops — especially tricky for anyone not keen on heights. We passed evidence of ash dieback, but also saw hopeful signs of replanting with fresh saplings.
👏🏻 11:35 am – Insta-Spots & Splashing Dogs – We reached the weir on the River Wye, a popular photo stop. Jilly dove straight in (Fergus opted out). We passed a picturesque bridge, picnickers, and a helpful sign for four-legged visitors that read: “Woof, woof, bark, bark… woof!” The gentle riverside stroll through Monsal Dale, a designated SSSI, was shaded and full of wildflowers. A rainbow trout even made a guest appearance near the riverbank.
🍫 12:00 pm – Snacks & The Next “Up” – After crossing the A6, we paused in a shaded picnic spot for water and chocolate. I pointed to the next section and said that word again: “up!” But our efforts would soon be rewarded by the beautiful Great Shacklow Woods. The group looked sceptical… understandably so. 😉
😅 12:15 pm – Climbing into the Woods – We made our way up a dusty track through pastures, then followed a trickling stream into the woods. At a fork, we laughed with a passing group of men about which path we’d take — unsurprisingly, no one picked the steepest option!
🥀 12:45 pm – Wild Garlic & Woodland Magic – Walking beneath a canopy of light-dappled leaves, we spotted fresh ferns, spring flowers, and a glowing carpet of wild garlic in bloom. Jan and Hannah posed atop a fallen tree — perfect for a photo break.
🐥 1:00 pm – Poohsticks & a Dip – Back in the valley, we passed a weir and derelict water mill before arriving at Sheepwash Bridge in Ashford-in-the-Water — voted the best place in England to play Poohsticks! The ducks were out in full force, and Snay immediately suggested we dip our toes in the river. Jilly agreed with great enthusiasm.
🍺 1:30 pm – Cheers to the Day! – We settled into a table at The Bull Pub, enjoying a cool drink and tasty food while the dogs munched on their own pub treats. After a few farewells, I joined Jen, Snay, and the pups for a riverside rest.
🦶 2:30 pm – Feet in the Water, Hearts Full – With tired feet happily soaking in the cool river, we watched dogs and children splash about — the perfect end to a wonderful walk.
3:30 pm – Back to Reality – Eventually, it was time to leave this little slice of Derbyshire heaven behind, but we went home with tired legs, happy dogs, and joyful memories.
What a weekend!
From Sound of Music hilltops to woodland see-saws, we packed it all in — along with plenty of laughs and the odd hill or three.
Big thanks to everyone who joined me, especially to first-timers Hannah and Oliver, and a huge shoutout to Paul Coxon for creating this fantastic trail.
Hope to walk with you all again soon!